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Recommended styling: Jacket construction: - Single-breasted with a low button stance creating a deep V-line - This deep V elongates the torso and slims the overall appearance - Avoid double-breasted styles, which add horizontal emphasis at the widest point - Structured shoulders provide balance with the midsection Lapel choice: - Peak lapels draw the eye upward toward the face - Moderate width rather than narrow, which can appear unbalanced - Shawl collars can work but may soften the silhouette too much Fabric considerations: - Darker shades minimise visual weight - Avoid heavy fabrics that add bulk - Matte or low-sheen fabrics are more forgiving than high-shine options Trouser adjustments: - Higher rise provides comfort and a smooth line under the waistcoat - Adequate room through the seat and thigh - Slight taper from knee to ankle for a clean finish - Flat front or single pleat depending on comfort preference The importance of proper buttoning: - A jacket that buttons without strain is essential - There should be no X-shaped pull lines across the midsection - When buttoned, a fist should still fit comfortably inside the jacket Accessory strategy: - A cummerbund provides a clean transition from jacket to trouser - Vertical elements (the bow tie, the lapel line, the shirt placket) create lengthening - Avoid wide, bulky watches or oversized cufflinks that add horizontal emphasis 3.3

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This post was originally published July 6, 2018 as the HYH Heal Your Headache Ranch